Pandoraspace

 

Dearest Uncle G,

On our first day in Jogjakarta, Danang took us to an authentic Javanese restaurant called Yu Djum. Getting to Yu Djum reminds me of how I got to Alamo’s in Legaspi, Albay. That is - we drove through narrow alleys lined with small houses until we hit the end of a road, which opens up to a cluster of small houses, and in one of those houses, you will find Yu Djum.

We got to Yu Djum at 11:00 a.m. and were among the first customers there.

I instantly felt at ease in Yu Djum. It felt like one of those old restaurants in the province that remains unchanged by time. As we entered, four old men started playing Javanese musical instruments while an old lady sang. Inside, there are about six or seven rectangular wooden tables each with two benches. On each table there are a few glass jars filled with kerupuk (fish crackers).

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If you knew how batik is made, you would never see it as just fabric again.

The physical process of making batik is long and laborious.  It begins when intricate designs are drawn on to white fabric.  Using an instrument that is similar to a fountain pen, the batik maker then traces hot wax over portions of the design. The wax will prevent portions of the fabric from being colored by the dye.  When the wax dries, the fabric is soaked in boiling dye-bath until the batik maker is satisfied that the fabric has obtained the right color.  After, the fabric is plunged in cold water to stop the dying process.  The fabric is then dried and the wax scraped off.  This process is repeated each time a new color of dye is applied to the fabric to color the other portions of the design.

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My friend Danang

I no longer remember what I said or did that prompted Padma to tell me that she made many Muslim friends in Indonesia and that they are wonderful people.  I had no Muslim friends then and no way of knowing whether what she said was true. So, I did not give the matter much thought until now as I remember my friend, Danang Purnomo. 

Danang is my first Muslim friend.  He is more than a decade younger than me.  Danang is a college student who does part time work as a tourist guide in Jogjakarta, the place where he lived all his life.  As a favor to his friend who knew our hosts in Jakarta and without knowing who we were, Danang agreed to “babysit” LS and I in Jogjakarta.  I use the word “babysit” because I somehow got the impression that Danang thought he would be looking after very young tourists. Of course, LS is young.  I am past young and I would rather think of myself as a traveller rather than a tourist.  As soon as we got the age issue sorted out, I think Danang was momentarily relieved that he would not have to exert much effort in the babysitting department.  Of course, Danang’s relief lasted only until I decided to do some marathon Batik shopping.  But, this is a story for another post.       (more…)